It may be a gloomy winter city with little international connectivity in a cold country where agriculture is a challenge. But Copenhagen, the capital of Denmark, is the undisputed gourmet capital of the world.
Much of this is down to just one restaurant: René Redzepi’s Noma. With three Michelin stars, Noma is the most influential restaurant of our era and has been rated the ‘World’s Best Restaurant’ by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants a record five times. Its influence radiates globally, with alumni and former interns finding fame in their home countries (including Indian chefs like Prateek Sadhu, Gresham Fernandes and Garima Arora).
The success of Noma has played a pivotal role in propelling Copenhagen to emerge as an adult playground for global gourmets who can afford to jet in solely for the pleasure of exceptional dining. If you’re contemplating a gastronomic adventure in Copenhagen, here are three restaurants that should be on top of your list.
Noma 2.0
Nestled on the periphery of central Copenhagen, amidst gardens and beside a lake, Noma 2.0 offers guests a panoramic view of the natural wonders surrounding the restaurant. Having savoured Redzepi’s creations thrice in the past year, it’s almost unjust to encapsulate the essence of Noma in a single definition. Unlike most top restaurants, it has no signature dishes and no permanent menu. Instead, it presents three unique menus annually: Vegetables, Game and Forest, and Seafood. No dish is ever repeated, so each time you go, it’s like eating at a different restaurant. Yet, the unmistakable style of Redzepi persists throughout.
In the summer, the spotlight is solely on vegetables: Employing techniques like fermentation and dehydration, the menu boasts intriguing elements like a ‘Scoby’ (a cellulose mat housing the mother of kombucha bacteria). As autumn unfolds, attention shifts to seafood and flavours of the ocean. Recent dishes include ‘Sea Snail Kebab’ and ‘Deep Fried Cod Tongue’. The Game and Forest menu is by far the most unconventional and star dishes include ‘Wild Boar Belly’ and ‘Grilled Reindeer Heart’.
Noma’s culinary ethos revolves around allowing ingredients to shine; Redzepi has established a sprawling R&D lab (led by Indian chef Dhriti Arora) and test kitchen on the premises. A seat at Noma costs 3,950 Danish kroner (DKK, or around Rs 48,000). Reservations open three months in advance for each season and sell out within seconds. Noma, in its current form, will close permanently at the end of 2024.
Alchemist
Conceived of by Denmark’s culinary provocateur Rasmus Munk, Alchemist is an immersive culinary escapade that challenges the traditional concept of a restaurant. Located in Copenhagen’s industrial district, the experience stretches across seven to eight hours. Since its opening in 2019, it has climbed the culinary pyramid and now boasts two Michelin stars and ranks at No. 5 on the world’s 50 best list. Legend has it that Munk once discussed his dream restaurant with a satisfied customer, painting an image of a technology-driven epicurean haven that would redefine global gastronomy. The patron turned out to be a Danish financial tycoon willing to fund the audacious venture.
The experience unfolds across multiple distinct spaces, treating diners to almost 50 bite-sized offerings playfully labelled ‘impressions’. The odyssey commences in the ‘Bar’, where guests are served snacks that include an ‘Edible Butterfly’. The next stop is the ‘Dome’, an expansive planetarium reminiscent of an IMAX theatre that projects a series of visuals synchronised with the food. The adventure culminates in the ‘Freedom room’, which houses a giant ball pit typically found at children’s parties, where a surprise awaits.
While the interactive elements undoubtedly distinguish Alchemist, it’s the impeccable culinary artistry, flawless service, and delectable dishes—such as the ‘omelette infused with sound waves’ or the ‘Butter-poached lobster claw’—that ensure guests return. The cost of a seat is 4,900 DKK (around Rs 60,000). Reservations open three months in advance and sell out within minutes.
Geranium
Perched within Copenhagen’s National Football Stadium, Geranium stands as a beacon of classic gourmet cuisine. Helmed by co-owners, Chef Rasmus Kofoed and Søren Ledet, it became the first Danish restaurant to win three Michelin stars in 2016 and in 2022 it ranked No. 1 on the world’s 50 best list.
The restaurant’s ambiance mirrors its culinary ethos: modern and minimalistic with an open kitchen. Kofoed, a towering yet soft-spoken Dane, intertwines Nordic ingredients with classic French techniques, resulting in a 20-course tasting menu characterised by clean, robust flavours and artfully presented dishes such as ‘Grilled Lobster with Lobster Oil’ and ‘Bread Pancake with Buttermilk and Truffle’.
In a move towards sustainability, the restaurant adopted a meat-free stance in 2021, marking a significant shift in its culinary narrative. While Geranium boasts an extensive wine cellar, I opted for the avant-garde juice pairing, featuring a concoction made using green apples, sea buckthorn and gooseberry. A seat costs 3,950 DKK (around `48,000) and reservations open three months in advance. For the discerning diner seeking a quintessential fine-dining experience, look no further than Geranium.
@RaajSanghvi