Money talks, wealth whispers: The essence of quiet luxury

Its recent history can be traced all the way back to the early decades of the last century, when Coco Chanel’s chequered tweed and the ‘little black dress’ became symbols of style, and chic classicism ruled. And then there was the legendary Yves Saint Laurent (YSL), who exemplified ‘chic’ness in every garment and accessory. At that point in time, what is quiet luxury today was termed ‘chic.’

The sudden resurgence of this trend in fashion circuits can be traced to the famous HBO series Succession, which was at the cutting edge of the quiet luxury trend, just like Sex and the City did in its day (1998 onwards) for brands like Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, Jimmy Choo, Fendi, etc., which were worn to be seen. The popularity of the series gave those brands a leg up.

Succession’s characters, especially Shiv Roy (played by Sarah Snook) and Naomi Pierce (played by Annabelle Dexter-Jones), wear luxury quietly with supreme perfection. They dress in a simple, tailored style without being flashy. Their wardrobes were typically made up of neutral-coloured, preppy pieces like suits, turtlenecks, and knit frocks. They dressed right for every occasion, emphasising quality and comfort in neutral tones. One of the few exceptions through the show’s four seasons was when the character Connor refuses to check his coat at the door of Ken’s birthday party because “I don’t trust those things. I lost a ‘Norwegian Wool’ in a fusion restaurant in Vancouver,” he said.

That casual mention sparked a run on Norwegian Wool to find out why it’s a brand that Connor covets. The New York Times called it “the coat to wear to Davos”.

What is quiet luxury?

Quiet luxury emphasises refined consumption and understated elegance. It’s also known as stealth wealth, old money aesthetic, or silent luxury. This subdued yet premium mode of dressing is leaving its mark on popular culture.

At its core, it is a resurgent fashion movement that emphasises investment in high-quality, minimalist pieces that have timeless appeal. In short, it describes those labels that offer products in sublime cuts and fabrics and which shun big flashy corporate logos and headline-grabbing fashion statements to encourage a sense of discovery instead. This is ‘anti-bling’—the other end of the scale to popular avant-garde designer brands that experiment with bold logos and ostentatious patterns.

Today, the minimalist aesthetic that has been dominating the runways the last couple of years is all about less is more. It continues to take the fashion industry by storm and is most prominent in men’s brands like The Row, Brioni, and Zegna. When you think of these brands, think simple but thoughtful silhouettes, timeless styles that defy trends, and neutrals and muted colours.

The quiet luxury convert is less concerned about projecting wealth than creating a wardrobe full of high-end everyday staples that speak to a more sophisticated understanding of style. It’s likely to go unnoticed by the untrained eye. Think neutral colours, smart tailoring, clean-cut lines, and elite craftsmanship. Think logo-less Loro Piana baseball caps, Brunello Cucinelli cashmere sweaters, and practically everything from The Row.

The women’s wear in this space is also very popular, purely because classics are back and it is all about neutrals and naturals. It all started when women realised they needed fewer clothes during the pandemic and moved more towards comfort. It was Back to Basics; it became all about styling—a simple black dress with cool accessories or a beige woollen dress with sleek black boots. That’s where brands like Celine, Loewe, Max Mara, Jil Sander, Issey Miyake, and Sandro became the highlights of quiet luxury in women’s wear.

The focus has moved to investment pieces and thoughtful shopping. That’s why the Hermès Birkin bag is one of the most desired women’s bags today. Described as practical, stylish, and highly desirable, it has been an icon of the fashion world since it first appeared in 1984. Inspired by the legend of French cinema and song, Jane Birkin, this tote bag is among the most sought-after bags. A Birkin can easily range from $10,000 to $2 million, and even if you are ready to pay all this money, you are still in a queue extending over a couple of years.

This concept is pretty nascent in the Indian market, which has been mainly driven by ‘logo luxury’, but it’s catching on. Says Ritesh Kumar of DS Luxury Retail, which has brought top-end men’s brands like Tom Ford, Brioni, Brunello Cucinelli, etc. to India, “Our brand curation is inspired by the evolving desires of the modern Indian consumer, particularly highlighted in the May 2024 DBS report, which notes the luxury industry’s growth is driven by younger consumers seeking unique and experiential luxuries. A key aspect of this shift is the embrace of ‘quiet luxury’, where understated elegance becomes the ultimate expression of personal style. In India, this trend reflects a conscious move toward sustainability and investing in enduring quality—steering away from ostentatious displays and celebrating the refinement of subtlety.”

Reliance Brands Ltd, the biggest player in the Indian market, which has over 94 international brands in its portfolio, including uber luxury ones like Valentino, Balenciaga, Jimmy Choo, Armani, Bottega Veneta, etc., has a different take.

According to an RBL spokesperson, this is just a reflection of the evolution of first-generation luxury shoppers in India, who, having long embraced iconic logos, are gravitating towards a more refined expression of luxury. “This shift is driven by their transition from sporadic to habitual purchases, with increasing focus on personal satisfaction rather than the signalling power that logos once provided. They now appreciate craftsmanship and subtlety, favouring understated designs that prioritise quality over overt brand symbolism,” the person says.The spokesperson adds that newer generations entering the luxury space are similarly mindful, choosing products that avoid excessive display while recognising that their initial entry often happens through the big names.

That shift is also mirrored in the evolving aesthetics of the products themselves. “Logos, once dominant and bold, are now smaller, more intricate, and seamlessly integrated into the design. These trends showcase a maturity in the Indian luxury market, where consumers value timeless elegance and the artisanship behind each piece,” the spokesperson says.

Why now?

On social media platforms like Instagram and Pinterest, quiet luxury is unmistakable. Influencers, once ambassadors of over-the-top luxury brands, are now embracing a more dignified and minimalist look. It’s not just a fleeting fad; it reflects a broader societal shift towards humility, self-control, and minimalism.

No wonder then that today Hollywood A-listers like Gwyneth Paltrow, David Beckham, Kylie Jenner, and the Olsen sisters have all jumped aboard, endorsing a style defined by monochrome outfits, tailored pants, linen shirts, and neutral colour palettes.

Interestingly, much of the momentum behind this resurgence can be attributed to GenZ, a generation that grew up with an abundance of information. Overwhelmed by the excessive displays of wealth and often inauthentic lifestyles portrayed on social media, GenZ yearns for authenticity and genuine connections. Economic challenges, global crises, and a keen sense of responsibility have made it more environmentally conscious and critical of conspicuous consumption.

The pandemic and the financial insecurity that came with it also meant that flaunting expensive logos was considered insensitive. Brands, too, were wary of being associated with excessive wealth. Plus, pop culture influence came into play as mentioned earlier with shows like Succession.

What Next

Beyond aesthetics, quiet luxury reflects a broader shift towards sustainable and ethical practices. The circular economy, where products are designed for longevity and can be reused, recycled, or upcycled, aligns seamlessly with quiet luxury. As more customers demand transparency and responsible production, brands are recognising the value of investing in sustainable materials and eco-friendly processes. It is a business imperative.

According to a recent report by industry body Global Fashion Agenda, brands focussing on sustainability are likely to outperform their competitors in the coming decade. Thus, it signifies a deeper commitment to ethical production, waste reduction, and a future where fashion is in sync with the environment. In a sense, brands embracing quiet luxury are not just making a style statement but championing a movement towards a sustainable and circular future in retail.

@ruchikamehta05