'Not just a watch, but a purpose': Panerai CMO Alessandro Ficarelli on legacy, innovation and what’s next

At the confluence of history and horology, Panerai continues to carve out a singular space in the luxury watch world, where Italian design flair meets Swiss mechanical mastery. Founded on a legacy forged beneath the surface of the sea, the brand’s DNA is inseparable from its origins, supplying precision instruments to the Italian Navy. Yet, in 2025, Panerai stands not as a relic of the past but as a case study in how a heritage maison can evolve with relevance, rigour, and a strong sense of identity.

At Watches & Wonders 2025, the brand unveiled a new chapter, one that blends cutting-edge materials, slimmer movements, and complex complications with its instantly recognisable silhouettes. Leading this evolution is Alessandro Ficarelli, Chief Marketing Officer, who has helped sharpen Panerai’s message for a new generation of collectors: bold design and utility-driven innovation aren’t mutually exclusive; they are the very essence of modern luxury.

In a conversation with Business Today, Ficarelli reflects on the enduring power of the Luminor, the role of material innovation, and how Panerai is preparing for its most ambitious moment yet, from the return of the Jupiterium to the debut of the new Luminor Marina Titanio.

PD: Panerai has built a strong legacy rooted in military-grade precision and bold aesthetics. How do you ensure that the brand remains true to its heritage while staying relevant in the luxury watch market?

Alessandro Ficarelli: Panerai’s legacy is built on a foundation of military precision, bold aesthetics, and a spirit of innovation. Our aim is to honour this rich heritage while continuously evolving to meet the expectations of modern collectors and watch enthusiasts.

We achieve this balance by staying true to our roots of technical excellence, blending Italian design with Swiss watchmaking know-how while embracing innovation in materials and technology. For instance, our focus on cutting-edge materials like Carbotech and Ti-Ceramitech ensures that we maintain the rugged durability that defines our core DNA while aligning with contemporary consumer needs.

At the same time, there is a prime focus on our community and we continue to engage with them through limited-edition timepieces, exclusive experiences with explorers, the military, and the world of sailing. By blending tradition with innovation, we ensure that Panerai remains not just a luxury watch brand but a symbol of adventure, technical reliability, and purpose.

PD: The Luminor has been a defining pillar of Panerai’s identity. What, in your view, makes this collection so enduringly iconic, and how has its evolution reflected changing consumer preferences?

Alessandro Ficarelli: The Luminor is more than just a watch collection, it is the very essence of Panerai. The Luminor’s origins in the 1950s as a tool watch for the Italian Navy define its purpose-driven design: robust, highly legible, and engineered for extreme conditions.

PD: What makes the Luminor so timeless is its ability to evolve while staying true to its DNA?

Alessandro Ficarelli: The Luminor remains relevant not just because of its design but because it embodies a lifestyle of boldness, exploration, and innovation, making it a true Panerai icon for past, present, and future generations.

PD: The new Luminor Marina series introduces the P.980 calibre and features like a reduced case thickness and weight. Can you elaborate on how these technical advancements enhance the user experience?

Alessandro Ficarelli: The introduction of the P.980 calibre in the new Luminor Marina series brings significant technical advancements that enhance both performance and wearability. This movement was chosen specifically for its balance of robustness, precision, and practicality, aligning with Panerai’s tool-watch philosophy.

One of the most notable improvements is the 12% reduction in case thickness and a 15% decrease in weight, making the watch more ergonomic and comfortable on the wrist while maintaining Panerai’s signature bold proportions. The P.980’s compact architecture allows for a slimmer profile without compromising functionality, offering a better fit for daily wear.

Functionally, the movement is equipped with a cross-balance bridge, which provides greater stability to the regulating organ, improving long-term reliability. Additionally, it features a stop-seconds function, allowing for precise time-setting, and delivers a 3.5-day power reserve, ensuring that the watch remains operational even after extended periods of non-use.

Another crucial enhancement is the increase in water resistance to 500 meters (50 BAR), a significant upgrade that makes the new Luminor Marina a true professional-grade diving instrument. This improvement, combined with the lighter case, enhances durability and wearability, making it more versatile for both extreme conditions and everyday use.

PD: The 50 BAR (~500m) water resistance is a significant upgrade for the Luminor Marina. How did Panerai achieve this milestone?

Alessandro Ficarelli: Achieving 50 BAR (500m) water resistance in the Luminor Marina is a major milestone for Panerai, reinforcing our ode towards constantly pushing boundaries and creating high-performance watches. 

By combining Italian design with Swiss engineering, we have elevated the Luminor Marina to new technical heights, ensuring it remains a true instrument of adventure whether on land or deep below the surface.

PD: Panerai is known for pioneering material innovation, from Carbotech to BMG-Tech. The new Luminor Marina Titanio showcases Grade 5 titanium with an olive-green aesthetic. What drove the choice of this material, and how does it elevate the collection?

Alessandro Ficarelli: At Panerai, material innovation is at the heart of our watchmaking philosophy. We have always sought to push the boundaries of performance, durability, and aesthetics, and the new Luminor Marina Titanio is a perfect example of this approach.

Grade 5 titanium is significantly lighter than stainless steel while maintaining exceptional strength and corrosion resistance. Whether exposed to seawater or extreme conditions, the watch remains durable.

The choice of an olive-green dial gives the watch a distinctive, military-inspired look while maintaining the bold identity of the Luminor collection. While the Luminor Marina remains deeply rooted in its naval history, using cutting-edge materials like Grade 5 titanium ensures it evolves to meet modern expectations. 

By introducing Grade 5 titanium in the new Luminor Marina, we continue to strive to combine Italian design, Swiss manufacturing expertise, and state-of-the-art materials to create a timepiece that is both lightweight and incredibly strong, ready for any adventure.

PD: The new V-shaped bracelet design for the Luminor Marina Steel marks a shift in Panerai’s bracelet aesthetics. What inspired this evolution, and how does it enhance both comfort and style?

Alessandro Ficarelli: Inspired by the signature contours of the Luminor case, the bracelet features progressively shaped links that taper from the case to the buckle, creating a seamless visual flow. This updated structure enhances wearability, offering a lighter feel on the wrist while maintaining the robustness and presence expected from a Panerai timepiece.

A key functional innovation is the Quick Length Adjustment feature, allowing the bracelet to extend by 2mm on each side, providing on-the-go adaptability without the need for tools. This ensures a comfortable fit throughout the day, accommodating natural wrist expansion due to temperature changes or activity levels.

The dual-finish detailing—with a brushed interior and polished edges—adds a dynamic, three-dimensional effect, catching light from different angles and elevating the overall sophistication of the bracelet.

PD: With Watches & Wonders 2025 on the horizon, can you give us a glimpse of what Panerai enthusiasts should be looking forward to? 

Alessandro Ficarelli: Watches & Wonders 2025 will be a landmark moment for Panerai, as we continue to push the boundaries of innovation and craftsmanship. A key highlight, as mentioned, is the new Luminor Marina series. Among the standout references, the Luminor Marina Titanio PAM03325 showcases Panerai’s expertise in high-tech materials, with a lightweight Grade 5 titanium case paired with a distinctive olive-green sun-brushed dial.

Panerai also continues to push the boundaries of horological complications with the new Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech, a standout of the Maison’s ability to create highly sophisticated movements that remain intuitive and functional for daily wear. This timepiece showcases watchmaking complexity with effortless usability, featuring a dual-time function, patented date shock protection, and an innovative perpetual calendar mechanism that requires no adjustment until the year 2399.

Another milestone is the return of the Jupiterium, one of Panerai’s most astronomically significant creations. Originally introduced in 2010 to commemorate the 400th anniversary of Galileo Galilei’s first astronomical observations, this masterpiece embodies Panerai’s engineering excellence and fascination with celestial mechanics. Now, in 2025, the Jupiterium takes center stage once again.