An Indian summer

There’s no doubting it. India is the flavour of the month. First, there were the estranged brothers rushing about the Rajasthan countryside with Louis Vuitton luggage in Wes Anderson’s The Darjeeling Limited. Then came Danny Boyle and his quirky rags-to-riches hit Slumdog Millionaire. And now Ermenegildo Zegna, the menswear powerhouse from Italy has launched their Spring/Summer ’09 collection with a lavish advertising campaign in Rajasthan.

Anna Zegna, the Image Director of the familyrun brand, says: “The pink city of Jaipur with its distinct sandstone palace facades illuminates the collection with the colours of India. The intricate decorations on buildings, the hustle and bustle of the streets and the friendliness of the people are all evoked through the campaign and were integral to the campaign experience.”

The advertisements do reflect that feeling of a bustling city, as well as the regal heritage of the place. But why India? To Anna, this is nothing new, as previous ad campaigns have been set in other emerging luxury markets like China. “We wanted to be the first luxury menswear brand to shoot an international advertising campaign in India. This country’s influence on fashion and luxury is gaining momentum and we wanted to recognise it,” she says.

The new collection reflects the ethos of the brand, which is all about enjoying the finer stuff. As Anna puts it: “Long summer journeys in India provided the subtle backdrop of rarefied atmospheres, both spiritual and intense.” Thus, you get paisley printed ties, sun blanched tones of the suits, Jodhpuri trousers and Nehru collars. This, according to Anna, is “a new vocabulary of formality”.

Then there is the technology. Ever since the brand began in 1910, the pride of Ermenegildo Zegna has been the premium fabrics it uses. Many of the clothes in the new collection are made of the “Travelling Micronsphere” fabric— one that makes the clothes breathable, as well as crease and stain resistant. This, Anna says, was an important development keeping in mind India’s hot and dusty summer. “The climate is, indeed, different and demanding, so we have developed an array of products that perform in varied climates. ‘Cool Effect’ blazers that reflect the heat produced by the suns rays. ‘Elements Jackets’ that autonomously adapt to changes in climate,” she says.

The locations of the shoot reflect the different ranges available from Zegna, and the attention to detail is impressive. The luxury line of “Sartoria” which features the Cool Effect blazer was shot at the Rambagh Palace, the erstwhile royal residence and now a Taj Hotel Resort. The “Made to Measure” and “Couture” lines were shot at the famous City Palace. The picture of the models riding Royal Enfield bikes wearing the Elements Jacket from the “Upper Casual” line was shot on the streets. All pictures were taken by the top fashion lensman Nathaniel Goldberg. It is the successful outcome of a painstaking process, which started with the collection itself. Anna says that the campaign was long but creative, “starting from the inspiration, to the design creation, the development of fabrics, sampling and finally to the merchandising.

It’s a long chain with many people involved.” So, here’s Zegna, with a new collection and a new campaign designed to tug at aesthetic heart-strings, not to mention purse-strings. What will set Ermenegildo Zegna apart from the torrent of luxury-wear brands now entering the country? Anna is very clear. “We are understated, sophisticated, vertically integrated and with a rich heritage of world class fabrics.” There you have it. Coming soon to a hoarding near you.