Be-spoken for

The first thing The Beatles did when the money from its many hits started rolling in was to make a trip to Savile Row to get fitted by master bespoke tailor Dougie Millings. No wonder the Fab Four looked so utterly stylish in those memorable pictures from 1964, in their skinny knit ties, cropped jackets and zip-up Chelsea boots. Or, perhaps, you remember Cary Grant’s bespoke grey suit in North by Northwest. Whatever the image or style, there’s a lesson to be learnt from all this—never compromise on the perfect fit. And that motto is at the heart of all things bespoke—and none more so than in the making of a suit.

And now, after decades of off-the-rack, slave-to-fashion styles, bespoke is making a comeback. In a cluttered world of identical suits, nothing breaks the clutter—in your own head and in the way you look— than putting your hands into your jacket pocket that has been stitched specially for you in accordance with the length of your arms. In this issue, we went through the entire process of getting a suit stitched at Manzoni and came back with a step by step guide on how to get that individual look.

The fit

This is the most important part of the process. The master tailor takes your measurements and files away the numbers meticulously so that everything from the precise length of your arms to the number of buttons can be crafted with just you in mind. Be prepared to come at least twice for your fittings.

Some bespoke classics The Beatles in A Hard Day’s Night: Who says Savile Row is stuffy? Just look at those boys! Cary Grant in North by Northwest: The world’s most famous light wool grey two-button suit. Marcello Mastroianni in 8½: The world’s most famous suit, period. This is the suit which made Brioni the brand it is today.

The craft

Like all fine craftsmanship, many bespoke tailors can take a shortcut to success. Those stitches might just be for show. However, a good tailor will not commit to a final shape until the very end, when both you and he are completely satisfied. The arm pieces and the lapels are stitched on in such a way that they can be taken apart and refashioned, if necessary.

The lining

The inner lining of the jacket is another matter altogether. The fall of the jacket has to be just right, and the beauty of the fabric should also come out. For this reason, always check that the tailor does not glue on the inner lining but uses a floating canvas (usually made from horse hair) to keep the shape of the inner lining. The canvas is stitched on so that it can be taken off at any given time for any alteration. It keeps the shape intact without messing about with the fabric.

The final look

If your tailor is any good, then this last sitting will also be the one where you’ll get the suit you always wanted delivered to you. Wear it, get measured one last time—just to make sure that things are fine—and go home feeling unique.