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From the Isle of the Dodo

From the Isle of the Dodo

Executive Chef Gurpreet Bhatia, who spent the last four years there, tells us the secrets of Mauritian food.

Mauritius, bang in the middle of the Indian Ocean, is an island of volcanic origin. No need to panic, though. Its cuisine is not “volcanic” by any stretch of imagination. In fact, Mauritian food is rather awesome.

The food colonialists

Rougaille de Saucisses
Rougaille de Saucisses
It all began in late 16th century with the arrival of the Dutch, who remained on the island for over a century and introduced coconut, tamarind, various citrus trees, banana, etc., and successfully cultivated sugarcane and sweet potato.

In 1720, with the arrival of the French, the island was renamed Isle de France. The French were compelled to adapt their cuisine to the local products available, thus creating what was to become the Mauritian Creole cuisine. Mauritius is a paradise for the senses, not only for the eyes with its beautiful landscape, but also for the palate. Gastronomes will find a variety of flavours and aromas inherited from different cultures. The story of a Mauritian starting the day with a continental breakfast, followed by an Indian lunch and finishing off with a Chinese dinner is a common cliché.

Desi flavours

Alooda Glacee
Alooda Glacee
During the 19th century, many people migrated to Mauritius from different parts of India and brought with them their own culinary tradition and eating habits. Dholl Puri—roti rolled with a variety of stuffings—originally an Indian delicacy, has become the “fish and chips” of the Mauritians. Biryani, a Mughlai delicacy, is a dish prepared by the Muslim community on the island, with meat mixed with spiced rice and potato. It is the most popular dish for any special occasion or weddings for all Mauritians.

Experiencing the food

Eating in Mauritius is an exciting and rich experience. Food in Mauritius has many different styles, and there are great restaurants in all the major towns. In addition, food in Port Louis and other tourist resorts is not restricted to traditional delights. Cuisines from all over the world can be found here, including Asian, Indian and West Asian.

What to eat

Gratin de Giraumon
Gratin de Giraumon
I would advise anyone visiting the island to try the local delicacy, Dholl Puri and salted fish rougaille, with a large glass of Alouda (flavoured milk with sago balls) or tamarind juice, to have a genuine taste of Mauritius. Be warned, though, the local chilli preparations might prove to be very hot.

Where to go

If you love food, you must visit the Central Market at Port Louis. Take a leisurely walk around the fresh food stalls, enjoy the aromatic herbs, visit the spice market, taste a variety of local snacks like Gateau Du Pain (bread pakoras), Gateau Bringele (eggplant pakoras), Piment Farci (stuffed and batter-fried green chillies) or Gateau Piment (chilli cakes). Also, taste the local beverages while you shop for souveneirs.

(As told to Dhiman Chattopadhyay)

Bhatia is a founder of Olde Bangalore, a resort and convention centre that recreates Bangalore of the ’60s and ‘70s. He had earlier worked as Executive Chef with the Apavou Group, a leading hospitality chain in Mauritius, from 2002 to 2006

Gurpreet Bhatia
Gurpreet Bhatia,
Chef recommends

Try this amazing recipe at home. It will save you the airfare, at least.

Daube de Poulet
Chicken in rich wine sauce.

Ingredients

Chicken: 1 kg (cut into pieces) Onions: 200 gm (chopped) Garlic: 30 gm (chopped) Coriander leaves: 50 gm (chopped) Red wine: 250 ml Medium dry sherry: 200 ml Parsley: 50 gm (chopped) Cloves: 5 (crushed) Ginger: 20 gm (chopped) Chillies: 3 (chopped) Tomatoes: 500 gm (blended) Oil: 200 ml

Seasonings to taste

Method

Marinate the chicken overnight with half the chopped onions, half the chopped garlic, chopped parsley and medium dry sherry.

Place oil in a saucepan to fry chicken. Remove chicken pieces from marinade. Keep the marinade sauce. Heat oil and add chicken in batches. Fry until golden brown. Remove and keep warm.

In the same oil, fry remaining chopped onions and garlic. Add crushed cloves, ginger and chillies. Add crushed tomatoes and remaining marinade. Allow to simmer until sauce thickens.

Add chicken pieces, mix with tomato sauce and simmer until chicken is cooked. Add red wine and simmer for five minutes. Add hot water if required.

Serve with rice.

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