Golf's own country

In less than an hour of being on the road, the paved streets of Belfast make way for country roads that wind through the famous glens of counties Antrim and Down. Antrim's verdant glens sweep downhill from the marshes of a volcanic plateau to the sea and you find yourself in the middle of rolling pastoral fields which seem like God's own giant golf course.

While some of the legendary golf courses in Northern Ireland-especially Royal County Down and Royal Portrush-are well known, Ulster has not been the most popular golfing destination. The 'Troubles,' as the period of civil strife in the 1970s-80s is known, kept visitors at length and golfers made a beeline for the neighbouring island of Scotland instead. Following the ceasefire and a return to normalcy, Northern Ireland has blossomed and Belfast has grown into a cosmopolitan city.

A short drive from the city to the Atlantic Ocean seafront brings you to the links courses that abut one another, and you can almost play your way all along the coast, from one end to the other. The historical isolation of the region has contributed to a pristine landscape dotted with small pretty villages barely touched by modern life, and a strong sense of community. Besides the two hallowed 'Royal' courses (which require prior bookings), the best way to go about playing golf here is to have no fixed plans.

Wandering off the beaten track can be very rewarding (a car can be rented for as little as 20 (Rs 1,375 a day). Golf courses lurk around every bend, tucked away between the many lakes and the dramatic coastline. It's entirely possible to play small, quirky and inexpensive layouts, of which unquestionably the most spectacular is Ardglass, situated on the south-east coast of county Down.

A sizeable green cover overlooks the ocean at Ardglass which gives the layout a rugged part links-part clifftop feel. It's relatively easy to play here and there's the added incentive of quaffing pints of Guinness after the round at the oldest clubhouse in the world-a Gothic castle-like structure dating back to the 14th century. Sitting in the clubhouse on the first floor with the locals, gazing at the sea just on the left of the first fairway with the outline of a lighthouse in the distance is postcard stuff.

Royal Portrush and Royal County Down can hardly qualify as hidden gems. Fine links courses both, they have been consistently ranked in the top five (outside of the US) in Golf Digest's biennial course rankings. County Down topped the list in 2009 while Portrush remains the only course outside Great Britain to host the British Open. Portrush lies beside the pretty North Antrim Causeway and is hemmed in by the hills of Donegal in the west, the Isle of Islay and the Southern Hebrides in the north, and the Skerries in the east.

The 13th-century Dunluce castle overlooks the course and gives its name to Portrush's famous championship course-the Dunluce Links which is home to one of the most stunning par fours in golf, the 411-yard fifth hole. A dogleg played from an elevated tee towards the ocean, it presents such a visual distraction that it's difficult to keep your mind on the game. From the green, you get stunning views of Dunluce castle.

The ominous sounding 'Calamity Corner,' the 210-yard par-314th hole, is rather literally named. Between the tee and the green is a large chasm, which must be cleared to stand any chance of making par. With the wind in your face, it's a hard driver for most (it must be hit low, and yet get across the void). Not surprisingly then, most people land left of the green, where some sadistic gorse awaits. A four on this hole is as good as a par.

You don't have to be a highly proficient golfer to realise, even after just one outing, that Royal Portrush is a masterpiece of golf course architecture. In the words of noted writer Bernard Darwin, designer H.S. Colt created "a monument more enduring than brass." Unimaginable rough and endlessly breaking greens, combined with the unpredictable weather off the North Atlantic, make this course a fantastic test for golfers of all levels.

A couple of hours along the coast lies the equally breathtaking but much tougher Royal County Down Golf Club. If Portrush presents a hard countenance, then County Down's championship links is downright stern. Even when the wind is down, the second shot on most par-4s is a long-middle iron-assuming that you've hit a big drive in the middle of the fairway. Sitting against the backdrop of the Mourne mountain range, and in the Murlough nature reserve, virtually every hole on the course presents a different vista of the shore.

Belfast is the ideal base. Even if you want to tee it up in the neighbouring counties, you don't spend too much time in transit. Close to the city centre are the stunning parkland courses of Shandon, Malone and Belvoir Park. Another course worth a mention is the historic Royal Belfast Golf Club. Located to the east of the city, it enjoys views of the Belfast lough (lake) and the Antrim plateau.

Compared to the Republic of Ireland, which uses the Euro, Northern Ireland has fared better in the aftermath of the recession. Even then, people are working longer hours to cope, and the tourism industry is throwing up great deals for travellers. Northern Ireland, like other parts of the UK, has never been a cheap travel option, especially for an Indian visitor. Nor is it a quick getaway. To get to Belfast, one has to take a connecting one-and-a-half-hour flight from Heathrow. But given the current downturn in hospitality rates, it really doesn't get any better. This is, without a doubt, the best time to visit Northern Ireland.

For a golfer, in any case, the links courses in Ulster are nothing short of the holy grail. So when you're planning yet another golf vacation to Scotland, consider this instead- you'll have none of the mad scramble for tee times, nor pay exorbitant green fees for a round of golf at the Ulster link courses. Even if you don't play well, the peripherals more than make up for it. The natural beauty of the region and the stunning landscape coupled with the sheer weight of history, will overpower any angst that a bad round of golf can cause. And at the end of the day, there's no care that a pint of chilled Guinness won't wash down.

WHERE TO STAY

BUSHMILLS INN
The village of Bushmills, home to the eponymously named Bushmills distillery, is just a 10-minute drive from the Royal Portrush Golf Club. Visit the distillery for a whisky tasting with the master blender. The fantastic Bushmills Inn has been a muststop for visitors for more than a century. The inn offers topof-the-line accommodation, an award-winning restaurant, and a bar.

Golf apart, the spectacular Antrim Coast is worth a trip on its own accord. Check out the imposing Dunluce castle, the Carick-a-rede rope bridge, and the endless miles of pristine beaches. The numerous coves lining the coast are an angler's delight. The Inn provides transport for groups. Tariffs range from 118 (Rs 8,000) for Classic mill house to 258-398 (Rs 18,000 to Rs 27,500) for junior suite.

SLIEVE DONARD RESORT AND SPA
The Slieve Donard, set along the coast, is the most magnificent resort hotel in Ulster. The Victorian grandeur and sheer luxury of the rooms make a stay here as unforgettable as the golf at the adjacent Royal County Down. The course is located right next to the resort, making it ideal for visiting golfers.

The rooms are equipped with all modern facilities but still conjure up the style and decadence of 100 years of history, boasting exquisite handcrafted furniture, Persian carpets and fireplaces. Tariffs range between 165 (Rs 11,375) for Classic single to 480 (Rs 33,000) for suites.