The last kingdom
The first impressions and vibes I get, as we land in Paro in Bhutan after a spectacular flight past the snowcapped Mount Everest and Kanchenjunga, are of awe. But, in a way, it all seems strangely familiar.
The clincher, however, is that despite so many similarities, Bhutan with its rustic and characteristic charm is a cut above them all. The Paro airport is a three-tiered building donning the ubiquitous blue, red and gold hues.
The air is crisp and clean, the streets spotless without a single trace of plastic or garbage, there are no signs of hoardings, vehicles don’t honk, the forests are lush green and thick with pines, rhododendrons and maples and the people are warm, friendly and courteous. It’s refreshing from the word go.
Our group, consisting of 14 eager women travellers (Women on Wanderlust or WOW), is full of questions and our guide Yamu, who speaks Dzongkha, English, Hindi, Nepali and claims to speak Japanese, obliges with a smile.
Much of the economy of the country, he says, depends on tourism, agriculture, forestry and hydro power projects as he embarks on the story of the glorious 100-year-old monarchy. We drive from Paro to Thimpu and check into our hotel (Hotel Riverview) there and as the name suggests the view from the room is like a perfect wallpaper with lush green mountains and the gently flowing Thimpu Chu river set amidst white glistening stupas.
Just like in most spots of Bhutan, the view is that of simple, untouched beauty. I order a coffee and settle down in the verandah to savour the nip in the air and the stillness.
Lunch turns out to be a delightful affair of delicious, home-made preparations of mushrooms, red rice, mixed vegetables and the quintessential Bhutanese dish called Ema Datsi or chilli and cheese.
Though staying put at the veranda seems like a tempting thought, I decide to tag along with the group and take the guide’s recommendation of checking out the Choeten, the handicrafts school and the National Library.
The Choeten turns out to be an imposing white memorial stupa built in 1974 to honour the 3rd king who is also known as the Father of modern Bhutan. The white stupa looks even more dazzling amidst the colourful prayer flags and the hundreds of monks dressed in red and burgundy.
The handicrafts school is an institution preserving the 13 traditional crafts of Bhutan, including wood work, weaving, casting, metal work and more and it’s heartening to see the classrooms full of eager students who are training to carry the art forward.
A trip to Thimpu can’t be complete without spending at least one evening at the Thimpu Square. Dotted by cafes and shops selling everything from trinkets and handicrafts to everyday household items, Thimpu Square is a haven for tourists, who compare notes and give each other knowing nods. Though nobody really seems to be in a rush, there is a clock-tower right in the centre of the square.
Bhutanese stamps have always had a place of pride in our amateur philately albums, so a visit to the Bhutan General Post Office, which is a stone’s throw from the Square, is also recommended. The day ends for us with a lovely dinner at a restaurant called “The Bhutanese Kitchen”, where we are treated to some delectable local dishes with great hospitality.
Beyond Thimpu
I also spot numerous apple orchards along the edge of the road all the way to Punakha. We stop to buy some fresh oranges, cucumber and roasted maize from roadside sellers. We arrive at the Punakha Dzong, which is a majestic fortress built at the confluence of two rivers, the clear blue “female” river Mo Chu and the white “male” river Pho Chu.
The sight is something I’ve never seen before. It is unnervingly ethereal to watch a male and a female river merge into each other as the fortress stands witness to the union. A bridge across the river takes us into this historical site where the 1st king of Bhutan was coronated.
As I enter the Dzong, I see large courtyards, with temples and doors made of wood and iron. The clanging of cymbals and the blowing of pipes sets the pigeons fluttering in the air and the stillness allows me to appreciate every flapping wing.
As many of my fellow travellers wander about, I pick my guide’s brains a bit more and quiz him about this fascinating land, which seemingly has withstood the test of time.
Yamu discloses the wonderful concept around which the people of Bhutan live and thrive—called GNH or Gross National Happiness.
For us, Indians, who are so obsessed with a growing economy and India Inc., GNH seems to be almost utopian. Based on four pillars of promotion of equitable and sustainable socio-economic development, preservation and promotion of cultural values, conservation of the natural environment, and establishment of good governance, GNH aims to beat the stereotype of economic growth as the sole indicator of a nation and aims to develop society in a more holistic way, where material and spiritual growth co-exist and complement each other. I am speechless. Oh, and for the sceptics, the economy is growing steadily at 8 per cent.
On the second day in Punakha, we take a 40-minute hike through rice fields to arrive at the Chimi Lhakhang Temple, which was built by Lama Drukpa Kuenley, who is also known as the Divine Mad Monk.
This temple is known as the Temple of Fertility and the monks inside give us a knowing look as a group of 14 women queue up for blessings. On our way out, we see several retired monks huddled in groups, silently humming chants and counting their rosary beads and chewing betel nut, a national pastime, that leaves their lips as red as their robes.
The Tiger’s Nest
It turns out, though, that our guide had saved the best, the trek to “The Tiger’s Nest”, for the last. We drive from Punakha to Paro, enroute stopping to gaze at the 108 stupas and the scenic view and to spend our last two days in Paro valley.
Trekking to Taktsang turns out to be an experience of a lifetime and something I decide would be worth sharing with my grandchildren (I am hopeful after the visit to this fertility temple!). It is believed that this sacred monastery was founded by Guru Rimpoche who flew on the back of a flaming tiger in the 8th century and meditated in a cave for three months at this site.
En route I spot one or two enterprising Bhutanese women, selling trinkets, bells, prayer flags and wooden Buddhas in their make-shift stalls. As I finally make it to the last few yards and negotiate the really steep steps right before the entrance, I catch the most spectacular waterfall, right in front of Taktsang.
The monastery stands gleaming in its white exterior with red adornments and a gold cupola roof, looking strikingly spiritual. The descent is less arduous but trickier as the slopes get slippery under a light drizzle. But Guru Rimpoche is not done yet, for on my way down, he presents not one, but two rainbows right on top of each other right in front of my eyes.
It is difficult to say what I will cherish most about this magical land. Will it be the trek or the all pervasive beauty, the ethos of the land or its simplicity? What’s for sure, though, is I wouldn’t want a thing to change in this beautiful country which is like a soothing balm for a dishevelled city soul.
The author is a senior corporate communications professional based in Kolkata.
