Restaurant review: The Dirty Martini
Another flamboyant new entrante on Delhi's nightlife circuit misses the mark, but hints at potential in the months to come.
The colourful and snug interiors on the ground floor of The Dirty Martini
Adding a splash of colour and theatrics to the all-white ensemble of Olive Garden Restaurant, The Dirty Martini stands out in juxtaposition, but falls short of the expectations elicited by its reputation. Promoted as a speakeasy reminiscent of 1920s prohibition, The Dirty Martini fails to deliver in terms of atmosphere, approach or ambience.
Unlike what you'd imagine of an illicit watering hole, nothing about the space spells discretion. The dcor is a bafflement between Moroccon and gypsy themes, but is enchanting nonetheless, with crystal lampshades, generously scattered throw pillows, and a playful colour palette. Visitors have the option of sitting indoors on the ground floor or making their way up to the terrace above, where the vibe is more relaxed.
As far as the martinis go, they lacked any element of 'dirty', and were just passable. The espresso martini, however, deserves a thumbs-up; a delicious concoction of Kahlua, espresso and vermouth, it was an instant hit. Unfortunately the extremely slow service was a complete buzz-kill; not even a martini warrants 25 minutes of preparation.
The same applies to the bar snacks, which came after an hour-long wait and no justification. From the little that we did end up sampling, the cigarsmoked salmon nachos (Havana Joe) were surprisingly good, although I found their presentation in oyster shells rather unnecessary given the contents of the snack. The vegetarians at the table ended up wasting their chevre patty with poached apricots, and the ratatouille crostini was just average.
Apparently there's a story behind everything on the menu (Havana Joe, was a gangster who loved salmon and cigars, hence the dish paying tribute to the man), but that quirky element is lost on diners after a prolonged wait.
I'd recommend The Dirty Martini based purely on its location, playful setting and the hope that its service will improve. If you're expecting an elaborate theme complete with a hushed entrance, the illusion of illegal boozing or underground grunge; don't bother. Don't go expecting a speakeasy, and you won't be disappointed.
BT MORE RECOMMENDS
Unlike what you'd imagine of an illicit watering hole, nothing about the space spells discretion. The dcor is a bafflement between Moroccon and gypsy themes, but is enchanting nonetheless, with crystal lampshades, generously scattered throw pillows, and a playful colour palette. Visitors have the option of sitting indoors on the ground floor or making their way up to the terrace above, where the vibe is more relaxed.
As far as the martinis go, they lacked any element of 'dirty', and were just passable. The espresso martini, however, deserves a thumbs-up; a delicious concoction of Kahlua, espresso and vermouth, it was an instant hit. Unfortunately the extremely slow service was a complete buzz-kill; not even a martini warrants 25 minutes of preparation.
The extremely delicious and very potent Espresso Martini
Apparently there's a story behind everything on the menu (Havana Joe, was a gangster who loved salmon and cigars, hence the dish paying tribute to the man), but that quirky element is lost on diners after a prolonged wait.
I'd recommend The Dirty Martini based purely on its location, playful setting and the hope that its service will improve. If you're expecting an elaborate theme complete with a hushed entrance, the illusion of illegal boozing or underground grunge; don't bother. Don't go expecting a speakeasy, and you won't be disappointed.
BT MORE RECOMMENDS
- Havana Joe
- Espresso Martini
