Luxury watches: Top picks from Watches and Wonders trade fair at Geneva

Jacob & Co Billionaire timeless treasure

Adorned with 217 carats of yellow diamonds and priced at $20 million, Jacob & Co’s Billionaire Timeless Treasure is one of the most expensive watches ever crafted. The makers went on a global treasure hunt over three and a half years to collect over 880 carats of rough yellow diamonds of exceptional quality, which were then cut and polished. Unlike white diamonds, yellow diamonds are extremely rare and with a 10,000 to 1 occurrence, they’re infinitely more expensive. The watch combines the best of high jewellery with that of high watchmaking—the skeleton movement is regulated by a tourbillion so thin that it may go unnoticed. But the 57 baguette-cut yellow diamonds around it will ensure it doesn’t. This unique piece is truly a collector’s item for a billionaire.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36

Moving with the times, Rolex has introduced a watch for GenZ and collectors alike. The Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 is time stamped with emotion—literally. An arc-shaped aperture at 12 o’ clock displays your daily mood­—‘Happy’, ‘Eternity’, ‘Gratitude’, ‘Peace’, ‘Faith’, ‘Love’ and ‘Hope’. The window at 3 o’ clock reveals, daily, one of 31 exclusive emojis in place of the date. And to add to the fun element, the watch’s dial is inspired by a jigsaw puzzle. Turquoise blue, red, fuchsia, orange, green and yellow pieces fit together on a single-colour background, each representing one of the key moments in life. The hours are marked by 10 baguette-cut sapphires in six different hues set according to the main colour of the dial.

Grand Seiko Tentagraph

Grand Seiko has launched its first mechanical automatic chronograph called the Tentagraph. The Tentagraph has a movement with a frequency of 10 beats per second and a power reserve of three days. Last year, at Watches and Wonders Geneva, Grand Seiko introduced its first mechanical complication and a series of sports watches from the Evolution 9 collection. Expanding the same collection, it now offers the first mechanical chronograph, which features the revolutionary high-beat Caliber 9SA5 as its base. The watch is put through rigorous testing for a total of 20 days to make sure it meets the brand’s requisite +5 to -3 seconds per day standard of accuracy.

Panerai Radiomir PAM01432

Panerai has introduced a new in-house movement called the Annual Calendar, which features intricate time-telling elements—seconds, minutes, hours, days and, now, each month of the year. It is Panerai’s first annual calendar complication, designed specifically for the Radiomir collection. Reaffirming its Italian roots, Panerai has introduced the Experience Edition, PAM01432. The dial is sun-brushed burgundy with a black hand-dyed matte alligator strap. Each owner of this limited-edition timepiece (only 24 pieces) will be invited to join a trip to Rome. Through events that combine artisanal know-how, culture, and tours of historical sites, participants will be immersed in the essence of the brand.

Bvlgari Octo Roma Precious Tourbillon Lumière

The Octo Roma Precious Tourbillon Lumière is the only—and very exclusive—creation for women in the Octo Roma collection. It is discreet, with a new case size of only 38mm. Instead of a dial, this piece features a skeletonised movement with rose gold lacework. Two central hands echo the colour as they circle the delicate diamond minute track, punctuated every five minutes by a ruby. At 6 o’ clock, the tourbillon appears to be suspended more than ever. The case is entirely paved with diamonds (bezel, case middle, lugs, and crown).

Omega Aqua Terra 150m

OMEGA introduced the original “Aqua Terra” family in 2002. The range of timepieces was given a Latin name, honouring OMEGA’s rich ocean heritage and the spirit of the iconic Seamaster watches, which were known for their reliability both on water (Aqua) and on land (Terra). OMEGA doesn’t participate in Watches and Wonders but launched the latest collection of Aqua Terra in late March. The one that caught our attention was the 38mm created in 18K Sedna Gold—OMEGA’s own red gold alloy, known for its high resistance to fading. The watch has a bezel paved in 46 diamonds totalling 1.77 carats.

Breguet Reine de Naples 9835

The Reine de Naples collection by Breguet is inspired by the first wristwatch, which was delivered in 1812 to Napoleon’s sister, Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples. Every piece in the modern collection, whether gem set, engraved, or lacquered, is an ode to femininity. The new interpretation, 9835, which was released late last year, is no exception. A unique feature is that the minute hand takes on a variety of shapes as it moves around the dial. The 9835’s bezel is set with 161 diamonds in 18-carat white gold and it has a blue mother-of-pearl dial. The watch is limited to 20 pieces.