From wardrobe to table: Fashion brands make a delicious entrance into the culinary scene

If food was fashion, then it would be called Gaggan,” declares the menu at the swanky new Gaggan Anand restaurant called Gaggan at Louis Vuitton, nestled within the recently opened LV The Place Bangkok, a majestic edifice along Ploenchit Road in the Thai capital. This latest venture by the French fashion powerhouse promises guests an immersive journey into the maison’s universe, complete with a tech-driven exhibition, a chic patisserie, an expansive retail space and a one-of-a-kind fine-dining experience crafted in collaboration with maverick chef Anand.

Since its grand unveiling in March, the sleek 40-seater restaurant has been fully booked, with reservations for its 17-course tasting menu, priced at 8,000 bahts (around Rs 18,500), pouring in from Louis Vuitton’s HNI client base.

Anand, arguably the most well-known Indian chef in the world, is no stranger to running high-profile or booked-out restaurants. With two Michelin stars to his credit and a four-year stint atop the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list, his culinary journey has been well-documented, including an episode on Netflix’s Chef’s Table, which earned an Emmy nomination.

But this collaboration with LV is unlike anything he has done before. Every aspect of the restaurant, from its decor to its tableware, has undergone meticulous scrutiny and approval from the LVMH headquarters in Paris. LV’s iconic motifs grace everything from plates and glasses to staff uniforms, even manifesting in the form of embossed ice cubes. Meanwhile, the chef, known for his quirky fashion sense, has undergone a noticeable transformation, appearing trimmer and clad in a bespoke “greige” ensemble crafted by the fashion house, perfectly complementing the restaurant’s upscale ambiance.

What truly sets this collaboration apart is its sheer audacity. The menu showcases Anand’s signature dishes, now presented with a dash of LV flair. From the “Yoghurt Explosion” delicately perched on a base shaped like the brand’s monogram to the “Damier Momo,” a mushroom dumpling adorned with the iconic Damier print, each creation is a testament to the fusion of cuisine and couture. However, in classic Anand style, there’s a playful twist; with creations like the “Patrani Macchi” wrapped in an LV-embossed banana leaf, theatrically torched table-side setting the brand logo ablaze, and “Lick It Up,” a dish served without cutlery, compelling diners to pick up and lick their plates clean. While Anand’s unorthodox culinary style may seem at odds with LV’s conservative heritage, it is precisely this amalgamation of contrasting cultures that breathes an electrifying vitality into the restaurant.

But why did LV opt to collaborate with Anand? Part of the rationale lies in LV’s recent penchant for unconventional partnerships, spanning trendy streetwear labels like Supreme and eccentric artists like Yayoi Kusama and Takashi Murakami, alongside their choice of new-age Creative Directors like Pharrell Williams and the late Virgil Abloh. Additionally, there’s an acknowledgment that food holds a certain allure. Chefs are the new icons and aligning with their persona allows fashion brands to resonate with diverse demographics and entice potential consumers.

The Anand-LV venture represents just one instance of fashion intersecting with food. Many luxury brands have ventured into culinary collaborations, such as Chanel’s glitzy Beige restaurant led by chef Alain Ducasse in Tokyo, and Dior’s upcoming Monsieur Dior restaurant in Japan, helmed by chef Anne-Sophie Pic. Meanwhile, Giorgio Armani boasts its own F&B vertical, with more than 20 outlets, including restaurants and cafes worldwide.

One particularly successful fusion of fashion and food is Gucci’s partnership with celebrity chef Massimo Bottura. In 2018, Bottura was brought on board to set up Gucci Osteria, a contemporary Italian eatery nestled adjacent to the Gucci Garden and boutique in the heart of Florence. The concept aimed to blend the sophistication and innovation of two iconic Italian brands, offering guests haute cuisine that lived up to Bottura’s culinary reputation within a setting tastefully curated by Gucci.

Initially, the restaurant attracted diners who were eager to experience Bottura’s culinary genius. Those unable to secure a table at his three Michelin-starred Osteria Francescana, could dine at Gucci Osteria for less than half the cost. But, over time, Karime Lopez, head chef at the restaurant, crafted her own culinary identity, developing a loyal following and drawing in guests for her own distinctive creations.

This experiment proved so successful that the restaurant was awarded a Michelin star the following year. Gucci went on to open three more such restaurants in cities such as Tokyo, Seoul and Los Angeles, two of which also subsequently earned Michelin stars.

Gucci’s collaboration with Bottura, both strategic and personal, leveraged the childhood friendship between former CEO Marco Bizzarri and the famous chef in a mutually beneficial manner.

Bottura’s deep personal commitment to the project elevated the Gucci Osteria brand into an extension of his famed Osteria Francescana, maintaining the same exceptional standards of food and service. He personally selected and mentored chefs such as Lopez and Takahiko Kondo, Antonio Iacoviello, Mattia Agazzi and Hyungkyu Jun to lead the various branches worldwide. And the triumph of Gucci’s collaboration with Bottura epitomises the seamless fusion of haute couture and haute cuisine.

So, will fashion brands continue to be a part of the culinary industry in the years to come? My guess is yes. Food has become the ultimate fashion statement, and the haute couture revolution in the kitchen is just getting started. 

@RaajSanghvi