Restaurant reviews: New Delhi's Ummami, Mumbai's Amadeus
Gurgaon's new fine-dining restaurant, Ummami, binds in its calm,
contemporary ambience the flavours of the world. At Mumbai's sea-facing restaurant,Amadeus, Spanish cuisine meets Levantine in an experience that's anything but plain.
With soft jazz and ambient lighting, Ummami is a calming retreat.
In the beginning of the 20th century, Kikunae Ikeda, a Japanese chemist deciphered the fifth sense of taste that was derived from glutamate and couldn't be classified like the four others our tongue responds to. This was termed Umami, which means savoury in Japanese. In its interpretation of this sensory philosophy, Gurgaon's Ummami stays true to its etymology with flavours that explode on the palate and linger long in memory.
Drawn apart from the hustle and bustle of the mall stricken MG Road, the restaurant is situated on the Golf Course road's Global Foyer building. The glass frontage, draped with white curtains lets in gentle strains of sunlight and balances out the ambient lighting of the two giant chandeliers by night. The soft glow of the white upholstery and table linen complement the warm aesthetics of the wooden floors.
The minimal interiors serve as backdrop for the drama of live kitchens that crackle with energy as they dish out Japanese, Pan-Asian, Mediterranean and Indian delicacies. For appetisers, head to the sushi and teppanyaki station that serves vegetable and prawn tempuras with a tangy warm soya dip along with sashimi and sushi with a tinge of pickled radish and sweet shrimp. The vinegar tinge in the sticky rice goes well with the sauted vegetables and fish. The Mediterranean counter whips up cheese, pepper and oregano in its creamy raviolis, leafy salads and wood fired pizzas. While the ravioli of fresh tomato, bocconcini and basil and the linguine of tenderloin and sundried tomato hold their texture well, the mixed leaf salad is crisp and refreshing.
For dessert, try the mille-fueille which has layers of mascarpone mousse balls and gooseberry jam sandwiched between slabs of crunchy hazelnut chocolate. Though delicious, the uneven consistencies of the layers makes it impossible to experience all flavours in one scoop, leaving it more of a visual delight The connoisseurs of the cooked craft can consider Ummami the jack of many trades that has mastered each.
First floor, Global Foyer Building, Golf Course Road, Gurgaon.
Meal for two without liquor Rs 1,600 + taxes;
Tel: + 91 124 4558000
MAINLY IN SPAIN
At Mumbai's sea-facing restaurant, Amadeus, Spanish cuisine meets Levantine in an experience that's anything but plain.
On a rainy day, Amadeus' warm interiors are all burnished wood and vibrant Spanish art. It seems laid out in a semi-circle through a clever play of mirrors and seating arrangement. The plush and cosy cushioned chairs invite you to sink in and watch the monsoons whip the bay into a frothing frenzy.
Amadeus follows Farrokh Khambata's successful Far Eastern specialty restaurant, Joss. Expectations, though, don't match precedent. The tapas here are solid, not exceptional. The gambas al pil pil stood out for its minimalist pairing of succulent sea prawns cut with garlic slivered in an olive oil dressing. The smoked paprika and beer batter clumped corn with spiced chimichuri sauce and lemon allioli also merits a mention. From the cold tapas selection, the zucchini tzatziki and zaaloukh served with fresh zatar pita is definitely recommended.
Coca, flatbread with a variety of toppings, is best shared. The freshness of the ham notches up the Serrano and rocket lettuce coca. Of the exotic paellas, the de setas is made memorable by the truffle oil garnish on forest mushrooms, though overall the dish remains a tad dry. Similarly, a cous cous tagine experiment with Indian salmon, potatoes and kalamata olives fell flat because the salmon didn't meld with the butter pilaf.
Desserts like the Ile flotante, a flourless chocolate cake served with Tahitian vanilla bean and mascarpone ice-cream, is thick and gooey. The frozen Gianduja chocolate with liqueur sabayon on a ladyfinger was exquisitely plated and is a must try for those who lust for chocolate.
Ultimately Amadeus, though very good, lacks brilliance. The service is still spotty and the food has a way to go before it achieves gastronomic parity with fare from the region.
Amadeus, NCPA, Nariman Point, Mumbai.
Meal for two at Rs 3,800 + taxes
Tel: 9833047773
-Anamika Butalia
Drawn apart from the hustle and bustle of the mall stricken MG Road, the restaurant is situated on the Golf Course road's Global Foyer building. The glass frontage, draped with white curtains lets in gentle strains of sunlight and balances out the ambient lighting of the two giant chandeliers by night. The soft glow of the white upholstery and table linen complement the warm aesthetics of the wooden floors.
The minimal interiors serve as backdrop for the drama of live kitchens that crackle with energy as they dish out Japanese, Pan-Asian, Mediterranean and Indian delicacies. For appetisers, head to the sushi and teppanyaki station that serves vegetable and prawn tempuras with a tangy warm soya dip along with sashimi and sushi with a tinge of pickled radish and sweet shrimp. The vinegar tinge in the sticky rice goes well with the sauted vegetables and fish. The Mediterranean counter whips up cheese, pepper and oregano in its creamy raviolis, leafy salads and wood fired pizzas. While the ravioli of fresh tomato, bocconcini and basil and the linguine of tenderloin and sundried tomato hold their texture well, the mixed leaf salad is crisp and refreshing.
For dessert, try the mille-fueille which has layers of mascarpone mousse balls and gooseberry jam sandwiched between slabs of crunchy hazelnut chocolate. Though delicious, the uneven consistencies of the layers makes it impossible to experience all flavours in one scoop, leaving it more of a visual delight The connoisseurs of the cooked craft can consider Ummami the jack of many trades that has mastered each.
First floor, Global Foyer Building, Golf Course Road, Gurgaon.
Meal for two without liquor Rs 1,600 + taxes;
Tel: + 91 124 4558000
The interiors with rattan chairs and polished wood are welcoming
At Mumbai's sea-facing restaurant, Amadeus, Spanish cuisine meets Levantine in an experience that's anything but plain.
On a rainy day, Amadeus' warm interiors are all burnished wood and vibrant Spanish art. It seems laid out in a semi-circle through a clever play of mirrors and seating arrangement. The plush and cosy cushioned chairs invite you to sink in and watch the monsoons whip the bay into a frothing frenzy.
Amadeus follows Farrokh Khambata's successful Far Eastern specialty restaurant, Joss. Expectations, though, don't match precedent. The tapas here are solid, not exceptional. The gambas al pil pil stood out for its minimalist pairing of succulent sea prawns cut with garlic slivered in an olive oil dressing. The smoked paprika and beer batter clumped corn with spiced chimichuri sauce and lemon allioli also merits a mention. From the cold tapas selection, the zucchini tzatziki and zaaloukh served with fresh zatar pita is definitely recommended.
Coca, flatbread with a variety of toppings, is best shared. The freshness of the ham notches up the Serrano and rocket lettuce coca. Of the exotic paellas, the de setas is made memorable by the truffle oil garnish on forest mushrooms, though overall the dish remains a tad dry. Similarly, a cous cous tagine experiment with Indian salmon, potatoes and kalamata olives fell flat because the salmon didn't meld with the butter pilaf.
Desserts like the Ile flotante, a flourless chocolate cake served with Tahitian vanilla bean and mascarpone ice-cream, is thick and gooey. The frozen Gianduja chocolate with liqueur sabayon on a ladyfinger was exquisitely plated and is a must try for those who lust for chocolate.
Ultimately Amadeus, though very good, lacks brilliance. The service is still spotty and the food has a way to go before it achieves gastronomic parity with fare from the region.
Amadeus, NCPA, Nariman Point, Mumbai.
Meal for two at Rs 3,800 + taxes
Tel: 9833047773
-Anamika Butalia
